The country’s wine industry has an image problem – even within Albania. But a new generation of winemakers are digging deep into their native grape stock, with impressive results

The only place on Earth where you can drink a glass of chilled ceruja is at Uka Farm, a biodynamic vineyard and restaurant near Tirana airport. The idiosyncratic grape climbs the mulberry trees near the shores of Lake Ulëz in northern Albania, and is harvested only once every few years.